"I want my pieces to be heirlooms, not just clothing,” says New York based Carl Soonawalla, a multidisciplinary creator whose commitment to sustainability convinces him "to use natural fibers and champion slow fashion. Sustainability is about creating something timeless, something that respects both the environment and the craft,” he reiterates.
As we log into his website, we are faced with a kaleidoscope of multi hued and hooded eyes. A quick peep into the apparel and designs on offer leads us to an olive green denim shirt, its chest pocket embroidered with a combination of embroidery stitches, knots and bead work to show "regeneration of nature.” Another white t-shirt with a hand embroidered pocket has "wild plants bursting through a circular window,” at the center of which appears the omniscient eye. Yet another "classic black ribbed tank features sections of beadwork along the stomach, meant to mimic a six-pack.” Pairing hand embroidery with futuristic silhouettes, he is attempting to create a dialog between history and innovation, he believes.
Footwear and attire designed by Carl Soonawalla (above r)
Having moved to New York after graduating from the Rhode Island School of Design in 2022, with a degree in industrial design, he gained experience as a footwear and eveningwear designer, "learning more and holistically growing my career. I’ve been privileged to learn various niches of the fashion industry, gaining pockets of experience that build my various strengths as a designer,” he told Parsiana. Currently working on the design team at Foray Golf, a golfwear and lifestyle brand that focuses on creating sportswear specifically for women, in a field and sport dominated by men, he has been combining his "training in user research and design with my passion for clothing.”
He considers Zoroastrian textiles "a rich tapestry of history and symbolism. Motifs of fire and intricate floral patterns, emblematic of the faith’s deep spiritual connections,” are recurring elements in his designs. "Incorporating these symbols into my work is my way of preserving and modernizing our cultural heritage.” Likewise the precision and symmetry inherent in traditional garas have inspired him to approach his designs with a similar ethos. "The garas taught me the importance of balance,” he notes. "I reinterpret their patterns with a contemporary twist, creating wearable art that bridges the past and the present.”
Having grown up in a "household where respect for nature was paramount,” he recalls his first embroidery project at school was based on a children’s book on Zoroastrianism. "My great-grandmother (mother’s maternal grandmother), Zarine Khambata, used to create intricate beaded bags, which I have admired since I was a little child. Being in awe of her ability to combine thoughtfully planned beadery with creating a three-dimensional object, I was inspired to take my understanding of creative capabilities further. In addition, my grandmother (Dinoo Parakh) was always working on complicated embroidery which I observed keenly, and my mother (Ayesha Soonawalla), a graphic designer, always encouraged me to be creative.” His father, orthopedic surgeon Dr Darius Soonawalla, too has been supportive of his choice of career. "Carl is a natural artist and both Darius and I could see that there was no other career but design for him since he was a small boy,” stated Ayesha.
Willing to experiment with a combination of materials, mediums and textures to create apparel, furniture, home goods, books and even apps, Carl realizes the importance of "trying, failing, and trying again until my project is realized.” He told Parsiana that he works "singlehandedly, often from the conception stages to fabrication, to even photography and editing. Occasionally, I tap into my network of creatives and artisans to collaborate on projects, using various people’s strengths to create things I wouldn’t be able to do solely with my two hands. The time taken for my projects often varies from a few days to more complex pieces that take months of planning and execution.
"Zoroastrian textiles have always blended ancient techniques with timeless beauty,” he says. "I want my designs to continue that legacy, showing that tradition and modernity can coexist harmoniously. While focused on creating a body of work and establishing a distinct language to ensure that my creations are truly meaningful, I use Instagram to post about my latest creations (username @carlsoonawalla), but have not been open for selling or commissions till now.”