Itamar Cohen’s lecture on Aden at the Asiatic Society on July 14, 2022 reminded me of Soonamai Desai’s observations regarding her Parsi relatives in Aden on her brief stopover there while on her way to Europe and England from her native Navsari. She had written an account of her travels in Gujarati which I have translated into English.
Soonamai wrote: "We approached Aden on the evening of Monday, June 22, 1931. Long before the port came into view we could see the mountains looming ahead of us. I waited on deck for my relative Edalji Pestonji’s family to fetch me.
"The steamer dropped anchor and the gangway was let down. There was a general hubbub as Arab vendors in their small boats surrounded the steamer vying with each other to sell their wares. I had locked my cabin and stuffed my valuables in my purse before ascending to the deck. Later I learnt that I need not have been so concerned as the ship’s staff kept a very watchful eye on all outsiders who boarded the steamer.
The Adenwalla Agiary in Aden
"My relatives came up to fetch me and even insisted that Mr and Mrs Kothawala accompany us. I had become so weak that I almost fainted while descending the gangway and not being comfortable in my new shoes, I tripped and lost my balance but was saved by my relative who practically lifted me on to the launch.
"Our first stop was at the fire temple, to offer sandalwood and pray for a safe journey. From there we went to see the famous reservoirs of Aden, without which this completely arid land would not have been habitable, though now there is a deep bore well which has reduced dependence on the reservoirs. I briefly met many of my Navsari acquaintances there. Having practically starved for so many days I now began to feel ravenously hungry. My mouth was dry, I could hardly speak, and the only thing I longed for was some really hot and spicy dhansak.
"It was my good fortune to arrive on the day Seth Adenwala had arranged for a gahanbar feast. The repast consisted of the gahanbar dhansak, dodhi-ma-gosh, sali-marghi, the huge boi fish of Aden, rotlis, kachubar, chutney, and various other dishes. After this delicious meal my strength returned immediately and I blessed my relatives so ardently that even if a quarter of my blessings should fall upon them it would be sufficient to ensure their success and happiness. We returned to the ship at eight that night. The sea filled me with dread. I felt like staying back in Aden for good.”
Mari Vilayatni Musafari (My trip to England), which is yet to be published, has been abridged and edited by Tulsi Vatsal and Sherene Vakil.