To reach the Seth Pestonjee Kalabhai Vakil Kadim Atash Behram (KAB), established 198 years ago in the Shahpore section of Surat, we wend our way through the narrow streets of old Surat where once stood a thriving Parsi moholla (locality). As one nears the KAB, one can hear the aazan call to prayer for Muslims emanating from spanking new, recently established mosques. From the wooden gate leading to the courtyard of the KAB, one sees a burst of greenery and flowers, reminiscent of holy places in Iran. Except for green flags fluttering about, green is hardly a color which is present in the KAB’s surroundings of residential buildings, shops, bakeries, household ware sellers, groceries, meat and chicken selling shops all standing cheek by jowl.
As we enter the fire temple’s courtyard, the marble bust of Nusserwanji Vakil greets us. Nusserwanji was the fifth descendant of the founder, Pestonjee, and Nusserwanji’s son Homi Vakil is now a joint managing trustee.
A khushali nu jashan to commemorate 198 years of the fire temple was attended by a hall full of devout Zoroastrians on Kadmi mah Tir, roz Ardibehesht (October 17, 2021). The gathering comprised devotees of all sects (Kadmi, Shahenshahi and Fasli). Heartening was the presence of about 30 priests from both the Shahenshahi Modi Atash Behram (AB) and the presiding Vakil one. There is great camaraderie between the Kadim and Shahenshahi atash behrams in Surat. And this is also true of the devotees. The ancient rivalry between the sects died a natural death after the initial competition over who would consecrate first. Two centuries ago the Vakil KAB was all set to open on roz Ardibehesht, but the Modi AB pipped it to the post by having its inauguration 15 days earlier.
In fact, Surat’s Vada Dastur, one of five high priests in the country, Dastur Cyrus Dastur sat dignifiedly distinguished by his red shawl to the right of the zaotar (presiding priest). All the priests intoned in sync with Ervad Kerman Katpitia who led the prayers.
The oldest priest at the jashan, Ervad Noshirwan Turel, 82, proudly proclaimed that he has performed 125 nirangdins (a ceremony to purify bull’s urine) and offered countless bois in and around the towns of Surat. Lamenting at the low pay of priests, and lack of medical benefits or provident fund, he was very appreciative of the help extended by the World Zoroastrian Organisation Trust Fund. "Hamuné bau mohto téko maléch (we have a great support).” He was heartened to witness the dharmic lagni (religious fervor) on the occasion.
From earning Rs 15,000 a month, senior priests now earn Rs 40,000 per month, Turel shared. Priests are once again encouraging their sons to take up the profession (girls are still barred from priesthood and cannot even become paramobeds in India.) Most priests in the 35 to 40 year age group work in commercial concerns and do part-time mobedi to earn extra income. The Vakil KAB has three boi-giving priests — Ervads Katpitia, Yazad Engineer and Adil Dastoor — who, in rotation, offer boi five times a day.
There are about 3,500 Zoroastrians in Surat today and enquiries made about the comparative numbers of Shahenshahi vs Kadmi Zoroastrians led to no definitive conclusion, though a guesstimate points to around 10% of the local population being Kadmis. The Kadmis have a distinct kusti recitation which is much longer than the Shahenshahi kusti prayers, with slight differences in pronunciation e.g. Kadmis say Ashem vohi and Yathaa ahi vairyo and the wording differs slightly. The Kadmis begin the kusti prayers with Sarosh Baj with Kemna Mazda being part of it, and then Ahuramazda Khodai and Jasme Avanghe Mazda. Also, the Kadmi calendar is one month ahead. The Iranis, who came to India from Iran later to seek better economic prospects, were Kadmis. Some Parsis, who had been resident in India for over 1,000 years, also chose to follow the Kadmi calendar.
Ervad (Dr) Ramiyar Karanjia, principal of the Dadar Athornan Institute, further adds that there are some ritualistic differences in the afringan, boi and wedding ceremonies. The Jamshedi Navroz celebrations of Irani Kadmis include setting a table of seven items beginning with the letter ‘S’ in Farsi, termed the haft-seen table. They also have a quaint custom of ululation which they use liberally during ceremonies to express joy. Will these differences be lost in a generation or two?
A few centuries ago Surat used to boast of a large number of Zoroastrians in the mohalla. Today, while the neighborhood retains its charm and Parsipanu, there are few Zarathushtis to be seen. Evidence of Parsi dominance though is striking, with the Surat Parsi Panchayat, The Parsi General Hospital and an orphanage for boys, all located within a stone’s throw of each other. Magnificent old buildings stand proudly, beckoning the few who enter. Surat is the second town in India, after Bombay, with more than one atash behram.
Parsi business houses and commercial establishments in Surat survive even today. Hormazdyar Patel has an old concern, Automotive Pressings Private Limited; Maneck and Afroze Patalwala run a business, Fluorocarbon Processing Industries, a Teflon component; Hoshang and Shernaz Hilloowala operate an English medium school for 4,500 students; Rustom and Rohinton Katpitia own Crystal Distributors, suppliers of surgical instruments. Parsis are well acquainted with Dotivala Bakers and Confectioners who retail the old favorites like khari, batasa and now karakari — a biscuit shaped like a figure of eight with light cardamon spicing. The bakery has been around for 160 years with the sixth generation at the helm today. Mazda Bakery is known not only for its nankhatai but also for farmash (like a crisp butter biscuit). They have recently started delivering outside of Surat as well. The name of thespian Yazdi Karanjia is inseparable from Surat. The theater doyen, a Padma Shri awardee, is director, playwright and also runs a commerce coaching institute.
Homi Vakil and Burzin Chiniwala, joint managing trustees of KAB, are diligently assisted by Patel who, with his knowledge of the current financial situation in the country and the economic policies applicable to charitable institutions, monitors investments. Nozer Variava is the go-to person for administrative and infrastructure information, with facts and figures at his fingertips. Behzad Kharas assists his father-in-law Homi with umbrella issues. Trustee Hoshie Malgham garners funds for the KAB through his wide network. He is one of two non-residents of Surat on the KAB trusteeship board. The other four are domiciled in this diamond city on the Tapti river which flows through south Gujarat. The passion to run a house of worship despite an ever reducing number of devotees is predominant in each of the trustees.
KAB is a Section 80G approved trust whereby Indian donors can claim a 50% deduction in computing taxable income. The trust has applied for a Foreign Contribution (Regulation) Act (FCRA) approval so as to be eligible to receive donations from abroad.
Cheques may be sent in the name of Seth P. K. Vakil Kadim Atash Behram Fire Temple Trust, Pestonji Vakil Street, near Surat Parsi Panchayat, Shahpore, Surat 395003; e-mail:
pkvakilfiretempletrust@gmail.com