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To reach the Seth Pestonjee Kalabhai Vakil Kadim Atash Behram (KAB), established 198 years ago in the Shahpore section of Surat, we wend our way through the narrow streets of old Surat where once stood a thriving Parsi moholla (locality). As one nears the KAB, one can hear the aazan call to prayer for Muslims emanating from spanking new, recently established mosques.  From the wooden gate leading to the courtyard of the KAB, one sees a burst of greenery and flowers, reminiscent of holy places in Iran. Except for green flags fluttering about, green is hardly a color which is......