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While the soundscape of the central Calcutta neighborhoods of Dharmatala and Calcutta 16 keeps amplifying, there’s no "jamva chalo ji (come, let’s eat)” in it for the city of joy, other than the swanky, upscale newcomer in a south Calcutta mall serving banqueting bawa dishes. A city where gluttony is a virtue, Calcutta might have been dropping colonial names of thoroughfares to incorporate patriotism in its addresses, but has no qualms in unapologetically devouring its beloved fish fry and dimer devil (deviled eggs) with kasundi (mustard sauce) — food items that have seeped into Bengal’s palate so much that they are......