What do feminist and socialite Lady Meherbai Tata, freedom fighter Bhikhaiji Cama and photo journalist Homai Vyarawala have in common? What links actor Persis Khambatta with Bapsybanoo Pavry, the Marchioness of Winchester and lawyer Cornelia Sorabji? If your answer is "they were all iconic Parsis,” you are nearly right. These are the women who, says couturier Ashdeen Lilaowala, inspired him to collaborate, visualize and "create” their likenesses dressed in his fabrics, along with creative personality Kadambari Misra who "models” as these women. "(Misra) does so in select saris from our contemporary and archival collections as well as some from her own wardrobe,” wrote Lilaowala to Parsiana.
Clockwise from top l: Kadambari Misra as Persis Khambatta; designer Ashdeen Lilaowala;
Misra as Homai Vyarawala, Lady Meherbai Tata, Cornelia Sorabji, Bapsybanoo Pavry and Bhikhaiji Cama
"As fellow designers, Ashdeen and Kadambari have long shared a love for stories told through style and art direction… (As) students of design at the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, they would spend hours talking about textiles, the world of fashion, and the dynamic, brilliant minds from these fields who influenced us all deeply,” notes a presentation that Lilaowala shared on the Ashdeen X Iconic Women Project.
Released on Lilaowala’s Instagram account, "Cama” is depicted in a blue sari with a dark border, holding an early version of the national flag. "Given that Madam Cama came from an affluent family it was important that there be a sense of luxury about her despite the simplicity. That came through the light sheen of the sari, a single red bangle that Ashdeen was particular about including, the way she wears her sudreh and drapes her sari. There is a sense of soft determination about her,” says Misra about recreating Madam Cama’s look. Of Vyarawala, Misra states that "To create Homai’s simple yet striking look, I first had to get the camera right. I fashioned this one from a vintage Agfa Prontor camera and added small details to make it look like the camera Homai was never seen without. Then the rest of it came together — a crisp khadi sari” and other accessories.
As the "Marchioness,” Misra dons a fawn sari embroidered with red flowers and accessorized with pearls and a maroon robe. In a possible throwback to her role in Star Trek, "Khambatta” is depicted in futuristic silver-gray while "Sorabji” is in all white, with a ruffled blouse. As "Tata,” Misra dons a Parsi-style sari, has her head covered and shows panache with elbow-length gloves. Yet another one depicts her in a sari and tennis shoes, an allusion to the story that she played the sport on the international circuit wearing a sari.
An article on her LinkedIn page details Misra’s tributes to other iconic women. She has portrayed herself in the past as Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, singer Alisha Chinai, Mughal empress Nur Jahan and Mongol queen Genepil, among others. "There are so many stories to be told, and so many lives to celebrate. So much work to marvel at, and a long list of biographies to read,” she notes.