Old buildings with character, quaint markets, cool sea breezes and the absence of urban sounds made a visit to Udvada and Nargol memorable
Text and photographs: Pranati Mehta
I’ve always wanted to visit Udvada and its neighboring towns as I’d heard so much about the beautiful old buildings, the wonderful small town atmosphere and the quaint little markets and shops. The opportunity suddenly arose in April 2011, as I was invited to a friend’s farmhouse in Sanjan, including day trips to Udvada and Nargol.
Vintage houses with ornate balconies and verandahs
What immediately caught my attention as I walked around Udvada were the clean, empty streets, the whitewashed walls and the scorching heat. Feeling a bit out of place about being the only non-Parsi in that part of town (apart from a few vendors), I decided to walk around and take photos of the lovely old buildings. Some of them had been restored by the people still residing there; others had been abandoned and left to the mercy of the elements. But these dilapidated structures still seemed to have character. Once ornate staircases stood forlorn behind broken window panes, patches of peeled paint on the sepia-toned walls made interesting patterns, and the gardens were overgrown and wild.
Above: Iranshah atash behram; next: sandalwood stall and beach expanse in Nargol
A massive baobab tree further up the road led to the Zoroastrian Information Centre, housed in a charming white bungalow. The complex was completely deserted except for a few workers carrying out repairs and a couple of sparrows chattering in the eaves. Sitting there in peaceful solitude, the cool sea breeze soon rejuvenated me, and I decided to walk on. I reached the street outside the beautiful Iranshah Atash Behram complex, and waited for my friend who had gone in to pray. A kindly old gentleman offered me a seat inside a shop across the road. I was relieved to be under the fan, out of the sun, and away from the curious glances of the people coming in and out of the fire temple, which were making me feel quite conscious.
Top: beach scenes ; Above and alongside: interior and exteriors of the Zoroastrian Information Centre
The next day we took a trip to Nargol. It was quite late in the evening, but luckily for us it was a full moon night. We passed the benches facing the "lake” where a group of elderly friends were enjoying each other’s company at the cool end of a scorching summer’s day. An old labrador retriever sat contentedly at the feet of his owners. Further down the road was a market place where locals sat with their baskets selling vegetables and fruit, cows milling around in the background. We walked further into "town” where the road was lined with stores selling grain, a flour mill, a tailor’s shop, barber’s shop and several other small establishments. Then we came to the residential area, the houses all designed in a similar style — brick tiled roofs, wooden or iron railings lining large airy verandahs in front, some with metal swings in them and some with children playing. No familiar urban sounds of the TV, telephone, honking cars, construction work or loud music. Only the sea breeze gently rippling through the leaves of the coconut trees, the soft voices of the locals as they chatted and gossiped and the occasional bark of a dog. Peace! This was exactly as I’d imagined it.
Pranati Mehta is a Bombay-based graphics designer and photographer.