Archive

Flowers in aluminum kettles, the red and white lace-edged tablecloths, Irani-style furniture of a bygone era, glass bannies or containers full of biscuits, faded sepia photographs on the walls, old soda bottles placed in alcoves along the wall and, in pride of place, the vintage jukebox belting out numbers from decades ago all add to the essence of SodaBottleOpenerWala (SBOW) in Jubilee Hills, Hyderabad that turned two with an all-new menu.
Visitors to the outlet are spoilt for choice. Not only does the restaurant serve highest quality food presented in a quirky, eccentric and unique manner, but it also serves a variety of dishes typical of Hyderabadi cuisine as well as the Parsi and Irani café fare available at SBOW outlets in other cities. A unit of Olive Bar and Kitchen Private Limited founded by A. D. Singh, the local partners for the Hyderabad unit are Shaaz Mehmood and Shiraz Mirza. "I have been very fortunate having grown up with many Parsi friends. They are such lovely people! Humor, culture, and a completely eccentric attitude embody their personalities! I relate so well to Parsis that many people have said that I look and behave like a bawa!” states Mehmood who partnered with the Olive group five years back. "SodaBottleOpenerWala was a product I related with so well, I felt I must showcase the Bombay Irani cafes in my own city!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This Ramzan, haleem (a stew that originated in the Middle East) was introduced at the Hyderabad restaurant. The main ingredients that go into making haleem are meat, pounded wheat, lentils, nuts and spices. For vegetarian haleem, vegetables are used instead of meat or chicken. Patrons were delighted to see not only the usual mutton and chicken and vegetarian haleem which is available in their city, but also gourmet versions of haleem in the form of duck, fish, prawn, turkey, Anaida’s Original Persian dish and roasted corn haleem. The ‘Gyarah Haandi Menu’ of 11 kinds of haleem is really popular. In fact, the restaurant’s customers loved it and voted so overwhelmingly that it went on to win The Best New Comer Times Biryani and Haleem Contest organized by The Times of India this year.  "Lubna Mirza, Shiraz’s mother is the genius behind the haleem recipes along with the head chef for SBOW in Hyderabad, Daanesh Lakdawaala,” says Nirmala Vanamali who is the head of marketing for Olive in Hyderabad.  The Salad Shirazi is all one needs to complete a meal with a plate of haleem.
 "The Hyderabad outlet also conducted the Haleem Walk which was an event curated by The FoodDrifters, Neidhi and Ashis. It was a contest held on social media and the winners were taken around to places and other restaurants specially chosen by The FoodDrifters to have the best haleem in town starting at SBOW’s Gyarah Handi Haleem festival,” elaborates Vanamali.
The new menu at SBOW offers Daily Specials. There are the classic dishes served in Parsi households like Bheeda Par Eeda, Dhan Daar Patio and Masoor Ma Gos.  Bombay classics like the Goan Prawn and Squid Curry and Chicken or Paneer Sanju Baba are delicious. Sanju Baba comprises of chicken on the bone or fresh paneer cooked in rich gravy, inspired by Bombay’s Noor Mohammadi’s restaurant opposite Bhendi Bazaar. The Bombay street gems of Boil Egg, Bhuna Chicken Sandwich and the Raasta Sandwich are worth a try. The Bhel in its new avatar of Crispy Corn Bhel is reinvented but still reminds one of the bhel eaten at Chowpatty beach and the Carnivore’s Bhel is a meat-lover’s delight with chicken, bacon and ham as its main ingredients.  The Gwarfali Cutlet served in a quirky tiffin box is a favorite with vegetarians. Traditional desserts rub shoulders in the menu with the new such as the Matunga Coffee Cake and the Mixed Berry Trifle. 
The Daaruwala Weekend every Friday and Saturday is highly popular with its serving of Parsi pegs, music on the Juke Box  or live cricket matches. Mumma nu double dose, with double measures of rum and whisky steeped in saffron and date flavor, mixed with beaten eggs reminds one of the Egg Flips of yester years. The BumSuckerWala with vodka, frozen raspberry and thyme  is an ode to a Parsi family from Karachi who made drinking Raspberry Soda popular there while Finding Frenny is a smooth gin-and-tonic spritzer with aromas of sliced seasonal fruit and cucumber. For teetotalers, there is a selection of beverages from Irani Special Chai to Pheteli Coffee and coolers like Sekanje Bin and Raspberry Soda.
The old favorites Berry Pulao and Dhansak are still served, although the Hyderabad outlet has started a Hyderabadi Irani menu comprising of local favorites like Hyderabad Biryani, Paya or trotters, Marag or tender meat soup, Lukhmis or fried mince squares, Khatti Daal or lentils in sour gravy, Talawa Arvi or Colocassia Fry, Daalcha, the beloved lentils and meat dish of Hyderabad and many more to cater to the local palate. The restaurant is open from noon to past midnight where a meal for two costs Rs 1,200. Ideal for lovers of both Parsi and Hyderabadi cuisine, SodaBottleOpenerWala remains true to its name and is an inspiration to the legacy of the Irani cafés in Bombay.
It is located at Niharika Jubilee One, Unit 4, Ground Floor, Plot No. 1355 H & 1355 I, Road No. 1, Jubilee Hills, Hyderabad500033; tel: 040 68888681​.