The Vegetarian Parsi: Inspired by Tradition by Niloufer Mavalvala. Published in 2022 by Spenta Multimedia Private Limited, 10, Sun Paradise Business Plaza, Lower Parel (W), Bombay, 400013; website: www.spentamultimedia.com. Pp: 160. Price: Rs 900, USD 19.99, GBP 16.99.
"When vegetables are a part of a food conversation, it generally entails a snigger and some scorn and a hint of condescension,” chef and author Niloufer Mavalvala (pictured) says in the Introduction to The Vegetarian Parsi: Inspired By Tradition. She adds, "My generation certainly had to eat their vegetables or were sent to bed hungry.” Parsis do eat vegetables, avers the Karachi-born-Canada-based writer.
This is the author’s third cookbook and contains 60 recipes. "Dedicated to all my beloved ancestors who have left me with the resources to share my knowledge,” The Vegetarian is divided into five sections: Celebrating Tea Time; Vegetable Basket, Parsi Thy Name is Eeda (egg preparations); Grains Lentils and Pulses and Mohnu Samarvanu (desserts). A helpful section, The Parsi Larder, has explanations of frequently used spices as well as tips on Mavalvala’s preferences for cooking mediums, spices and pastes.
Contents of each section vary from the tried and tested to the exotic: from kumas to banana cake; from vegetable stew to Makai Paka, a corn on the cob which the author says pays tribute to the Parsis of East Africa; sali par eedu to akuri made with potatoes and another with carrots, and a cheese souffle. The section on Grains, Lentils and Pulses includes rice tossed with chutney and daar bhoji. She means bhaji; Mavalvala’s penchant for exotic spellings and names continues in this tome. Poha is puhva; papeta is papayta; kadhi is kudhee; dhana as in dhana jeera powder is dhona! The humble Chutney Eeda na Pattice have transmogrified into Parsi-Style Scotch Eggs!
Unusual twists include chapat served with marzipan. The Daar ni Potli, a take on the Daar ni Pori (the crust not fully covering the lentils on the upper side) makes a reappearance from a previous book of Mavalvala’s.
Tips and trivia accompany most recipes. Mavalvala recommends that the eggs for the Lagan nu Custard be sieved to ensure a "smooth as silk texture.” Take, for instance, the instruction for a good scrambled egg: it is meant to be folded over, not stirred like porridge. The author is obviously writing this for the novice. Her recipe for Vegetarian Dhansak Masala ni Daar has the caveat that "all debates aside, taking the step of cooking the masala by itself is the most important.”
The reference to aik tar no seero (like a thin wire) in some recipes pertains to the thickness of the caramelized sugar syrup, considered the perfect consistency by many, will meet with approval from the purists who grew up hearing about this test from their mothers and grandmothers.
This cookbook has been printed by Spenta Multimedia in Bombay. The cover depicting Chutney Rice was created by Zara Contractor. The photography is by William Reavell, "my teacher and mentor in food photography,” states the author. "Encouraged by William, there are plenty of my own photographs included in this cookbook.”
Author, activist, senior lawyer and Parsiana columnist Berjis Desai states in the Foreword that urban Parsis "tend to cook vegetarian fare exactly like meat…which destroys the subtle flavors of fresh veggies.” As he puts it, the recipes in the book are more for the cook who wishes to prove that "ghaas-poos (derisive term for vegetables and vegetarian fare) too can be very delicious.”
Writing in the Preface, the author’s cousin, entrepreneur-philanthropist Zarina Mehta Screwvala acclaims Niloufer’s Kitchen, which, says the author, is "a site to enjoy good food, free recipes, e-cookbooks and heightened food experiences.” Zarina’s husband Ronnie states that the articles and stories shared by the author "give the reader a sense of her joie de vivre in her kitchen at home,” while chef Anahita Dhondy states that the book brings forth "hidden gems… We must change with the times and include more plant based ingredients in our diet.”
Mavalvala’s previous books include The Art of Parsi Cooking: Reviving an Ancient Cuisine (see "Fantastic ancient cuisine,” Parsiana, October 21, 2016) and The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders (see "Traditional, with a twist,” Parsiana, March 7-20, 2021).
The author states on her website, the new book makes for "light reading…It is not intended for strict vegetarians or to convert anyone to become one.” In keeping it light, she has evidently succeeded. The Vegetarian will appeal to the mildly curious and those exploring newer vistas. FARROKH JIJINA