A visit to the temple town during the run-up to the inauguration of the new Ram temple was inspiring
Persis Vatcha
The Ram Mandir, the pivot placing the town of Ayodhya in the center of Hindutva, is now of international renown amidst the ringing of ghanta ghadial (temple bells) and chanting the glory of Lord Ram’s name. The idol of Ram Lalla (an affectionate name for an infant boy) was formally consecrated on January 22, 2024. This temple, an architectural marvel of the 21st century, is still in the process of completion.
In November 2023 I was part of a group of women who visited Prayagraj (Allahabad), Ayodhya and Lucknow over a period of seven days. I have always been fascinated by ancient history and love the architectural features of temples, churches, fire temples and mosques. It was a learning experience to see what religious fervor means to people and how a simple town can be propelled into the 21st century.
During our visit we found Ayodhya in a state of breathless excitement, gearing up to welcome their beloved son Ram and to house him in splendor. The town was festooned with flags, posters of the divine three — Ram, Sita, Laxman along with the devoted Hanuman — intermingled with modern star power. Hordes of saffron clad sadhus, devotees, beggars, the local populace and tourists mingled en route to the Ram Mandir. An onslaught of Hindu tourists from the world over is expected. Ayodhya’s star is shining bright.
Persis Vatcha (standing 2nd from l) with group of tourists who visited Ayodhya in November 2023
Aadhar cards in hand, biometrics taken, questions asked and having spent the afternoon at the information center, we finally registered for the 6.30 a.m. aarti (veneration ritual) the next day, the auspicious day of Dev Diwali. We were the lucky 30 (out of 60 people) granted a place for the morning darshan. I was blessed and destined to be a part of this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to pray in the sanctum sanctorum.
Plowing through a multitude of devotees awaiting their turn to pray, we passed through stringent security measures. No cell phones, purses, belts, leather goods or watches were permitted. Ladies were allowed to wear their jewelry though.
Gun-toting security was everywhere. The half-hour aarti was a sublime experience in a house of God. Monkeys terrorized the assembled people as they were leaving the temple, enjoying royal status, grabbing food and flowers from devotees.
As we exited, the new Ram Janmabhoomi temple could be seen soaring into the breaking dawn, bathed in golden celestial light. Tall, intricately carved, with harmonious lines, it is truly a testament to the skill of Indian artisans. This temple, situated virtually at the current shrine’s threshhold, has been built in the Nagara architectural style with three storeys, 392 pillars and 44 doors at an approximate cost of Rs 1,800 crores (USD 217 million). Reportedly, no taxpayers’ money was involved as it was financed entirely through public donations amounting to around Rs 5,000 crores (USD 675 million).
When I was there, Ayodhya was in an unfinished state. Roads were being widened, shops given a facelift, old homes pulled down and pubic ablution areas were non-existent. The bone-dislocating e-rickshaw ride was spine-chilling.
Tourists and pilgrims will propel Ayodhya to being one of the foremost temple towns in Hindutva India. Similarly, hotels, airports and the elaborate train station have also become tourist draws.
Ayodhya is replete with hundreds of temples. The Hanumangarhi, a 10th century temple dedicated to Hanuman, has a baal (child) idol of the monkey god seated in his mother Anjani’s lap. Kanak Bhawan, located next to Ram Mandir, was a gift to Sita from Queen Kaikeyi, the third wife of King Dasharatha.
On Dev Diwali we were also privileged to attend an aarti at the Ram ki Paidi, a series of ghats on the Saryu River. Pilgrims took a holy dip there and fed the cows. We tourists took a boat ride on the river before the aarti began at 6.30 p.m. The river was illuminated by thousands of floating diyas — an entrancing sight indeed!
Poverty was starkly visible. The throng comprised beggars, sadhus, the faithful, the locals as well as people like us.
One needs to be physically fit and have sturdy legs to see everything — walking is essential for visiting any monument, temple, aarti or architectural site. Needless to say, hotels in Ayodhya are primarily vegetarian.
As a new hub for religious tourism, Ayodhya has great potential provided more hotels, infrastructure, and additional attractions are created. One temple alone may not be enough to keep every devotee satiated.
Persis Vatcha is a trustee of several trusts that support manifold community institutions and individuals.