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Universal appeal

The newly renovated Cafe Universal specializes in sizzlers and Chinese dishes
Parinaz M. Gandhi

His head covered, feeding an incense holder with frankincense, the fumes of which ascend in a slow spiral as he makes his rounds of the newly renovated Cafe Universal, Behram Radmanesh was absorbed in his own thoughts. It was a little before 11 a.m. when the doors of the eatery — situated almost at the bifurcation of Mint Road and S. Bhagatsingh Road in Bombay — are thrown open to the public. But it will take a while for the patrons to start trickling in for in its new avatar it attracts not the chai-brun-maska (tea and crusty bread with......



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