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Family Secrets — The Khan Family Cookbook by Zarine Khan. Published in 2015 by Roli Books, M -75, Greater Kailash IIHands-on home food Market, New Delhi 400048 email info@rolibooks.com Pp: 191. Price: Rs 795.

Zarine Khan’s debut cookbook is deeply linked with the story of how she met Sanjay Khan her film star husband and, more crucially, her relationship with her mother-in-law Bibi Fatima Begum Khan to whom she has dedicated the book. Calling it a "simple book of home recipes,” Zarine says Fatima made her realize that simple ghar ka khana (home-made food) can often turn out to be far better than time consuming and elaborate recipes. A "hands-on cook,” Khan’s book includes a mix of Mughlai, Persian, Continental and Parsi recipes.
The author states the staple food of her growing up years were mutton dhansak and patra-ni-machhi. While the book does have several Parsi favorites, it is a surprise to read that Khan learnt for the first time, only from Fatima Begum, that "veggies tasted even better when mixed with meat.” Being the daughter of Burjor and Sheroo Katrak, it seems that the Katrak kitchen does not seem to have benefitted from the delights of dudhi-ma-gosh or cauliflower-ma-gosh! 
Again, somewhat surprisingly, the book begins with a section on vegetarian food. Coming from a Khan, one would have expected that section to be neatly tucked away towards the end of the book, a mere add-on. Bangalori Dal, in that section, made with South Indian spices is a tribute to Fatima Begum’s stint in the southern city. The biryanis that the Khan’s Eid parties are famous for form a significant portion of the next section "Biryanis, Pulaus and Rice.”
It is in the section on "Fish and other sea food” that Khan reveals that prawn patia is her favorite. "I prefer to keep it simple, with white rice, yellow dal and prawn patia,” Khan says, shying away from calling the dish dhan-dar-patio. The standard Parsi flag-bearers of patra ni machhi, prawn kababs and fish saas find place in this section. Mutton dhansak, sali chicken and a ‘Parsi style mutton curry’ (starring coconut, coconut milk, red chillies and garlic) find mention in the sections on chicken and meat.
Khan is not partial to desserts and prefers to serve fresh fruit, having been scared off sweet confections as she had a "Parsi friend who ... was so obese that just seeing her gobble up the many sweets at home made me promise to myself that I would never get my kids into the habit of a sweet tooth.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The book has a section on suggested menus for those who want to mix and match recipes from Khan’s offerings, which is very thoughtful, though one wonders how many households would favor a patra ni machhi, white fish curry, green chutney and white rice for the same meal! Most of the recipes are well illustrated, with photography and food styling attributed to Ashima Narain. The introduction has some special vintage pictures of the Khan household, while casual photographs of the family along with individual favorite recipes are interspersed throughout the book. Second daughter Simone Arora loves dhansak, while husband Sanjay favors aash maash, the Persian greens and mince stew!
What prompted Khan to write this book was the popularity of their household’s food, she reveals in her dedication. Having hosted numerous Indian and international celebrities, including a Mauritian prime minister, Nepali and Moroccan royalty, Khan is proud of continuing a tradition of keeping an open kitchen started by Fatima Begum. "Our kitchen fire has never been put out even for a single day,” she claims.